Monday, March 5, 2012

A short trek through Big Horn country...

Waiting for Spring…

An old cottonwood along the banks of the Kettle River reaches up into the cold, early March sky. Not much thawing of the ice flows today. Snow lay deep along the trail. Listening close I could hear the whisperings of ice and water as the river enters the transition from the cold season to one slightly warmer. For a moment the thick clouds parted and rays of sunshine found a distant mountain. It soon passed. The message was clear – not today, not today…


Trekking around in big horn country again today. What a difference one day and a bit of warm sunshine make. Temperatures near 50* give a feel that this winter may be relinquishing it’s near four month grip on the Kettle River Valley.

Here are some images (remember to double click to see the photographs in larger format)…
Mary’s Dome, a prominent feature in the upper Kettle River valley, on the SW flank of Vulcan mountain.

As the ice recedes the lichen grows. Such is the way on these vertical south faces along the banks of the Kettle River. Later in the year temperatures will be so hot that the lichen will all but vanish, drying and shriveling to naught as there will be no moisture to be found during the hot.

Below the ice and lichens, on a very wet, south facing rock wall, the mosses grow thickly.  Look closely and you can see several trickles of water dripping through the dense, wet moss. The sound of small, cascading waters were prevalent along this cliff line.
The Oregon Grape are in full ‘red’ as winter’s grip leaves the steep and rocky south slopes of Little Vulcan Mountain.  The white snow, red leaves and speckled rock made for a strong composition of the natural elements.
Lichened rocks, red leaves, distant cliffs, towering Ponderosa Pines and a shear rock wall, what’s not to like on a sunny afternoon trekking about in the mountains? Given this was the warmest day of this winter, the ice falls that had frozen onto the vertical rock faces were melting and breaking loose, often tumbling 100+ feet from the rock above. Hundreds of pounds of ice crashing down and shattering thousands of small pieces on the rocks below. Made for an interesting hike.
Pinja pup on a boulder that several years ago came to an abrupt stop against this young tree (which still bears the scars).
An image of a cottonwood starkly silhouetted in the winter’s afternoon sunshine…
These three rocks, still frozen into the Kettle River remind me of a Japanese sumi drawing.  That simplicity of form, the stark contract of light and dark, the line of composition
Pinja on guard…

It was a strenuous day, hiking about in the mountains. Walking was a combination of post-holing thru snow, skiing on loose rocks, sliding on hard crusted ice and slipping in muck. But the warm sunshine made up for it all…


To close a fine afternoon we had this pileated woodpecker visit as we were walking back to the rig….


Thanks for checking in...

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Okanogan Highlands in Winter...

The diversity of the Okanogan Highlands, (spelled and pronounced
Okanagan in Canada) an international area between southern British Columbia, Canada and Northeastern Washington State, U. S.A., is vast. Spanning an area of over 5 million acres, with multiple mountain ranges including the Monashee, the Kettle River range, the Okanogan Range and the northeastern foothills of the North Cascades this area encompasses a layering of complex eco-systems. Rivers in the area include the Similkameen, the Okanogan, the Kettle and the Columbia. This album will focus on the winter season of the Okanogan Highlands, which lasts from late October through April (elevation specific).
Remember to double click on an image to see the larger version.
The wildfire scars of 7,140'  Copper Butte in the Kettle River Range are easily seen as winter blankets the mountain steppes. This landscape is representative of the eastern reaches of the Okanogan Highlands in Ferry County.
Photo by J. Foster Fanning
* * *
Forests in the Okanogan Highlands, Winter

The forests of the Okanogan Highlands vary by elevation, aspect and geographic location within the Highlands themselves. Mid, southern slopes can be a mixture of open spaced, towering Ponderosa Pines and encroaching Douglas Fir with the higher regions giving way to Lodge pole Pine and Alpine Fir. Mountainous wetlands are usually cottonwoods with large, branchy Spruce. Quaking Aspen groves are found on moist but open slopes. The hot, dry summers and heavy fuel loading on many of the mountain slopes equate to a fire prone ecology in these highlands. Many of the panoramic photographs I post of this area show the scars where large scale forest fires have traversed the landscape.
A dense stand of aspens mixed with cottonwood, scrub birch, and wildrose, during an early winter snow storm in the Kettle River Valley of the Okanogan Highlands. Photograph by J. Foster Fanning

On the mountain slopes above the riverside village of Curlew in Ferry County a ridgeline forest of open Ponderosa Pine is shrouded in winter mists after a warm, wet snowfall.
J. Foster Fanning, photographer























* * *
Summits in the Okanogan Highlands, Winter

Ferry County, Washington, contributed to a total of 120 named mountain summits and peaks in the Okanogan Highlands. Okanogan County adds another approximate 80 named mountains. My personal expertise is skewed toward the United States side of the highlands and I do not have an accurate account of the number of named summits and peaks in the Canadian portion of the highlands.


Mount Bonaparte, at 7,257 feet (2,211.93 meters) is located in northeastern Okanogan County, Washington State. This lone summit monadnock is the highest peak in the Okanogan Highlands south of the Canadian border. Mount Bonaparte is within the Okanogan / Wenatchee National Forest and has a fire lookout tower in it’s summit still staffed during the summer season.
Big White Mountain summit at 7,595 ft, (2,315 m) is the highest mountain of the Okanogan Highland. This peak also dominates Beaverdell Range which lies between the Okanogan Valley to its west and the main spine of the Monashee Mountains to its east. Big White lies between the head of the Kettle River and the source of Damfino Creek.
Photography ~ J. Foster Fanning
In Progress - Please check back soon...
Foster


Saturday, January 14, 2012

The Holiday Letter (just a little bit late)...

These pages, primarily meant for family and close friends,  will read a little better if you double click on them to open them up. Hope you enjoy...



Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Transportation Ferries in Eastern Washington

Not all public transport ferries in Washington State are in the coastal areas:

Given the recent, unusual opportunity to ride both of Eastern Washington’s vehicle carrying ferries on the same day, I decided to do this post to capture that experience but more importantly look at the vital services these two ferries provide to their respective communities and delve into a little of their histories.


Lets first address Eastern Washington’s two vehicle carrying ferries in order of general usage:


1. The Keller Ferry – vessel name: Martha S.


2. The Gifford / Inchelium Ferry – vessel name: Columbia Princess


Both of the above ferries operate on Franklin D. Roosevelt Lake. There is another private passenger ferry operating on Lake Chelan, Lady of the Lake, but that is not a vehicle carrying ferry and will not be addressed in this article.


THE COLUMBIA PRINCESS

We’ll start with the smaller of the two ferries: the M/V Columbia Princess a.k.a. the Gifford-Inchelium Ferry operated by The Colville Confederated Tribes. The route across Lake Roosevelt links the areas of Inchelium and Gifford on the eastern side of the reservation. Connecting the Inchelium Highway to State Route 25 across the river. The fare to ride is free. The weight limit is 40 tons. The ferry operates between 7 days per week between 6:30 AM and 10:00 PM. The tribe operates the ferry under a Public Law 93-638 contract. The average daily traffic for cars is 227. One round trip takes approximately 30 minutes.


Initially costing the tribe $28 million, the Gifford / Inchelium Ferry began operation in 1982. Recently the tribe received $940,000 in Ferry Boat Discretionary funds to construct the new dock facility.


While the Columbia Princess ferry does carry transport traffic moving across the Colville Tribal lands and Ferry County it primarily serves the village of Inchelium on the Colville Indian Reservation in Ferry County, Washington, United States.  The population of the town was 409 at the 2010 census. The village Inchelium was relocated from an earlier site in the early 1940s. Old Inchelium had been on the banks of the Columbia River before the construction of the Grand Coulee Dam. As the waters rose behind the dam, the town had to be moved.

THE KELLER FERRY (a short history)


The history of the Keller Ferry extends back further in time, predating the creation of Franklin D. Roosevelt Lake. This ferry crosses the Columbia River linking Ferry County and the Colville Indian Reservation on the north bank to Lincoln County on the south. The Columbia River is approximately one and a half miles wide at this point with towering basalt cliffs and rugged scab land forming both shores. The river wasn't always as wide. Construction of the Grand Coulee Dam about 15 miles downstream from the ferry route quadrupled the width of the river when the reservoir was filled in 1942. Prior to that, the ferry crossed a free-flowing Columbia River rather than the slack water Franklin D. Roosevelt Lake as it does today.

One of the signatures of the Pacific Northwest are the intricate ferry/transport systems linking the major areas of the Salish Sea and some of the great cities of the NW. Thus it may come as a surprise to note that Washington States 1st ferry was located in Eastern Washington long before it the cross-sound routes in Western Washington that are familiar to so many. On September 1, 1930, the State of Washington Department of Highways took over control of the Keller Ferry run on the Columbia River, operated by Mr. William Latta, completing a link on what was then known as State Road #4. The State's tenure as a Puget Sound ferry transportation provider did not begin until over 20 years later, with its purchase of the Black Ball Line on June 1, 1951.

THE MARTHA S.

The Martha S. is 80 feet in length with a 30 foot beam. The capacity of the vessel is 12 cars with a maximum vehicle size of 75 feet in length with a gross weight of 80,000 lbs. This ferry is powered by two Detroit Diesel 6-71 engines with an approximate combined horsepower of 470. The top travel speed is about 12 miles per hour and the crossing takes about 10 minutes on the water. The Keller Ferry crew consists of eight people. Ferry operators are licensed by the United States Coast Guard after being tested to operate this specific class of vessel.


On the morning of September 9, 1998, the Washington State Ferry, Martha S. made her 50th anniversary crossing of the Columbia River between Lincoln County and Ferry County. The vessel was launched in 1948 and has been in continuous service since.

The MARTHA S. departing the southern landing point of the Keller Ferry route in Lincoln County, WA.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Honoring My Father...

Veterans Day Remembrance of my father, John Lawrence Fanning Jr. March 18th, 1929 to December 3rd, 1951. United States Navy.

As a teenager during World War II my father was gung-ho to join the service and fight for his country. At age 17 he secured consent from his parents, John Lawrence Fanning and Margaret Fanning to enlist in the U. S. Navy.


Because of his young death at age 21 and the bitter dissolution of the two families, maternal and paternal I never really knew my father (being three months old when he perished attempting to rescue a fellow sailor). It would be many years after his death before I discovered there was another branch of my family and nearly half a lifetime before contact was reestablished due to the complexities of life, time and distance.


John Lawrence Fanning Jr. affectionately known within his family and close circle of friends as King, enlisted in the U. S. Navy in 1946 at 17 years old. Part of the following are some of his words and photographs from that timeframe. My deepest thanks to West Coast cousins Larry and Jackie Pearson for saving the photographs and letters and routing them to me.


Recruitment and Enlisting:


This brochure, produced for the Secretary of the US Navy was put out during recruitment for WW II. I'm certain my father was familiar with it as a mid-year teen longing to join the service during this engagement:


"Enlisted men are the backbone of the Navy. They are real heroes, who ask for nothing greater than the chance to help win the war — and the opportunity to show they've got the stuff to do it. To these men of action — men who join the Navy to serve their flag and country, regardless of grade or rank —this booklet is dedicated."
Secretary of the Navy

While I don’t know the exact date or details it wasn’t long after his birthday in 1946 that my father entered the service as a raw recruit. While the official date for the ending of WW II is August 15, 1945, a wave of post-war enlistees, immediately in the wake of the war are still considered by US Navy as veterans of WW II. My father fell into this category (see military headstone above).  

Guantanamo Bay, Cuba, US Navy Base

My father’s letter to home, dated February 22nd, 1947 mentions debarking from the US Naval base at Guantánamo, Cuba. My historical research for this post shows that during the Spanish-American War, the U.S. fleet attacking Santiago retreated to Guantánamo's harbor to ride out the summer hurricane season of 1898. The Marines landed with naval support, requiring Cuban scouts to push off Spanish resistance that increased as they moved inland. This area became the location of U.S. Naval Station Guantanamo Bay, which covers about 45 square miles and is sometimes abbreviated as "GTMO" or "Gitmo".


By the end of the Spanish-American War, the U.S. government had obtained control of all of Cuba from Spain. Tomás Estrada Palma, the first President of Cuba gave the United States a perpetual lease for the area around Guantánamo Bay in 1903. The Cuban-American Treaty gave, among other things, the Republic of Cuba ultimate sovereignty over Guantánamo Bay while granting the United States "complete jurisdiction and control" of the area for coaling and naval stations. The base was an important intermediate distribution point for World War II merchant shipping convoys from New York City and Key West, Florida, to the Panama Canal and the islands of Puerto Rico, Jamaica, and Trinidad. I’ll not go into contemporary history of the area as it does not affect this story.

In 1947 new recruit J. L. Fanning Jr. found himself in gunnery practice at the US Naval base in Guantanamo Bay. The following are two photographs he took of one of the ‘dry-land, ships gunnery practices.


The Vessel - USS EUGENE A. GREENE (DD-711)
DD-711 General Specifications Class: Gearing-class destroyer
Named for: Ensign Eugene A. Greene (1921-1942)
  • Complement: 336 Officers and Enlisted
  • Displacement: 3460 tons
  • Length: 390 feet 6 inches
  • Beam: 40 feet 10 inches
  • Flank Speed: 35 knots
  • Range: 4 500 Nautical Miles
At Sea - The Atlantic Ocean


Ports of Call my father noted were:
Naval Station Norfolk, in Norfolk, Virginia, supports naval forces in the Atlantic Ocean, Mediterranean Sea, and Indian Ocean. It is the world's largest Naval Station, supporting 75 ships and 134 aircraft alongside 14 piers and 11 aircraft hangars, and houses the largest concentration of U.S. Navy forces.

Trinidad, the larger and more populous of the two major islands and numerous landforms which make up the island nation of Trinidad and Tobago. It is the southernmost island in the Caribbean and lies just 6.8 miles off the northeastern coast of Venezuela.
Rio de Janeiro (River of January), commonly referred to simply as Rio, is the capital city of the State of Rio de Janeiro, the second largest city of Brazilwith 6.3 million people, and the third largest metropolitan area in South America.

Montevideo is the largest city, the capital, and the chief port of Uruguay.


At sea, February 20th, 1947. "I'm a 'Shellback' now." Seaman Fanning wrote home.
The ceremony of Crossing the Line is an initiation rite in the Royal Navy, U.S. Navy, U.S. Coast Guard, U.S. Marine Corps, and other navies that commemorates a sailor's first crossing of the Equator. This tradition is an event no sailor forgets.  Those inducted into the "mysteries of the deep" by Neptunus Rex and his Royal court, count the experience as a highlight of their naval career.  Neptunus Rex's party may and usually will include Davy Jones, Neptune's first assistant, Her Highness Amphitrite, and a long list of characters limited only by the veteran members imagination. Sailors who have crossed the Equator are nicknamed (Trusty) Shellbacks, often referred to as Sons of Neptune; those who have not are nicknamed (Slimy) Pollywogs.
Here is a sample certificate of completion of the Shellback Initiation from the 1940's I found on-line:

Mission of Good Will:


USS EUGENE A. GREENE (DD-711) - a Gearing-class destroyer, operated along the east coast and in the Caribbean acting as plane guard for pilots in carrier operations. From her home port in Norfolk she sailed to Guantanamo Bay for training early in 1947 and on 13 February sailed in a task group bound for Montevideo Uruguay to participate in the festivities accompanying the inauguration of Uruguay's president. The group also paid a good will visit to Rio de Janeiro before returning to Norfolk, 31 March.




1951:
Fast forward four years. Little did my family know it but 1951 was to be a year of big changes. My 18 year old mother and 21 year old father get married. About nine months into the year I am born on September 4th and in between the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays my father dies tragically at a very young age. Indeed a year of changes…


November 28th, 1951, just after dark, my father is driving a loaded truck with two Navy buddies as passengers. A drunk driver swerves into a corner striking and overturning the truck in a terrible crash. The accident and the resulting account were witnessed by a taxi driver and his fare traveling the same route. My father thrown clear of the wreckage appears to have only scrapes and bruises. One of the passengers climbs out of the truck dazed from the impact but the other fellow is trapped. Realizing the situation my father attempts to rescue his trapped buddy. During the impact the fuel tank of the truck had ruptured and during the rescue attempt the battery shorted, sparked and ignited the pool of gasoline. My father and his trapped buddy were engulfed in a ball of fire. The trapped passenger died on scene. My father survived a week and died in intensive care in the hospital December 3rd, 1951. I was one day short of three months old. As a result of this terrible occurrence the paternal and maternal sides of my family fell into grief, despair, anger and confusion. There was an emotional explosion that severed the family and spun us off in different directions, parts of which would never reunite.


FOOTNOTE:
Looking back over the years, I realize that coming to terms with the death of my father and it's subsequent family aftermath has been a life long process for me. Throughout the early years of my life the subject was taboo for various reasons - children learn these lessons well, sometimes too well. In the 70's I was too busy building my own life and simply let the status quo stand. In the mid 1980's I connected with the West Coast branch of my family (my father's sister, Aunt Pat had married and moved west to raise her family there). God bless them all I was received with open arms. Later I traveled back to the East Coast and met with my Grandmother and two other Aunts. It was a wonderful reconnecting but my Grandfather had died and I deeply regret to this day not reuniting with him. Time, distance, economics, and unfortunately patterns of life, have been a challenge to staying in touch.
Although born John Lawrence Fanning III, I grew up with the name John L. Foster. In the 1990's I legally changed my name to J. Foster Fanning, honoring both my blood father and my step-father. Shortly there after my son changed his family name from Foster to Fanning in honor of his Grandfather who lost his life trying to save a friend and fellow serviceman.

WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND:
My half brother Rick died in a car crash when he was a young man leaving a son and daughter behind. Once again, although under differing circumstance (mostly economical) there was a family estrangement occurring. Several years later in coming to terms with what was happening I stepped in and managed to bring the
teenage children of my half-brother back into contact with my mother and other brothers. Fortunately we have remained in contact to this day...





Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Golden Tiger Pathway

The last entry I managed to upload here was clear back in July. Gads! How is it that life buries us under such minutia of details we are always short of time? Speaking of which, here is a short story I'll share before I get to the topic I want to cover in this posting:

GET YOUR ASS IN GEAR:
One day a farmer's donkey fell down into a well. The animal cried piteously for ...hours as the farmer tried to figure out what to do. Finally, he decided the animal was old, and the well needed to be covered up anyway; it just wasn't worth it to retrieve the donkey.


He invited all his neighbors to come over and help him. They all grabbed a shovel and began to shovel dirt into the well. At first, the donkey realized what was happening and cried horribly. Then, to everyone's amazement he quieted down.


A few shovel loads later, the farmer finally looked down the well. He was astonished at what he saw. With each shovel of dirt that hit his back, the donkey was doing something amazing. He would shake it off and take a step up.


As the farmer's neighbors continued to shovel dirt on top of the animal, he would shake it off and take a step up. Pretty soon, everyone was amazed as the donkey stepped up over the edge of the well and happily trotted off!


MORAL :
Life is going to shovel dirt on you, all kinds of dirt. The trick to getting out of the well is to shake it off and take a step up. Each of our troubles is a steppingstone. We can get out of the deepest wells just by not stopping, never giving up! Shake it off and take a step up

* * *
Golden Tiger Pathway

Near the small mountain town of Republic WA, deep in the Okanogan Highlands, on the foothills of the Kettle River Range there is a 27 mile long stretch of abandoned railroad grade running from the town north to the Canadian Border. The first three miles of that grade have been partially surfaced over and form what is known at the Golden Tiger Pathway, which is the portion I'll mention here. The rest of the grade is now a part of the Ferry County Rail-to-Trail system (see Ferry County Rail Trail, ).
The western gateway to the Sherman Pass Scenic Byway also marks one of the parking / entrances to the Golden Tiger Pathway near Republic, WA. Photography by J. Foster Fanning
The southwestern entrance to the Golden Tiger Pathway is near Republic, WA. has two small parking lots, one located across State Highway 20/21 from the high school football field. The other entrance is at the Sherman Pass Scenic Byway sign along side Hwy 20/21.

The Golden Tiger Pathway has both an improved and unimproved surface.
Photography J. Foster Fanning

The pathway is well separated and above the state highway and for the most part is usually uncrowded. Often I find myself the only person walking or cycling the trail.  




An interpretative sign along the Golden Tiger Pathway.
Photography J. Foster Fanning
 There are some interpretative signs along the trail and I think the plan includes more as funds come available.








Big Gib, a steep mountain face overlooking the town of Republic WA seen from the Golden Tiger Pathway.
Photography J. Foster Fanning
This is a late summer image of Big Gib, the mountain overlooking the town of Republic. The vistas of the pathway have distinct seasonal changes as the cycle of seasons occur. The pathway is groomed for cross country skiing during the winter months.
A bench overlooking one of the many vistas of the Golden Tiger Pathway.
Photography J. Foster Fanning

I'll close this posting with this image of an inviting bench overlooking one of the many vistas of the Golden Tiger Pathway. If your in the Republic area this is definitely a walking or cycling path worthy of a visit.


For more info regarding the Ferry County Rails-to-Trails
http://www.ferrycountyrailtrail.com/

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Cooking with Beer...


Brauts and Brew have a long history extending over the grill, atop the stove and in the oven. What I’ve found important, through trial and error, is the relationship to temperature, moisture content, elevation, barometric pressure and latitude during the cooking process. Thus when our friends and proprietors of the Republic Brewing Company launched a Beer Cook-off with the judging based on “Recipes judged for: deliciousness, difficulty and strategic use of beer” I knew a definite advantage in the ‘strategic’ use of beer category.

Now ‘deliciousness’ is an altogether different element but confidence held with the use of Louisiana Hot-link Sausages bathed throughout a ten hour simmer in a frothy, rich brown beer from said taproom carried home in a four pint growler.

So in the end all that remained was the ‘difficulty’ portion of the prerequisites. Hmm, lets see my riverhome kitchen is at 1,850 elevation, 48*52’.59” Latitude, with the current barometric pressure of 29.78 and steady, with a ten hour preparation duration the cooking temperature had to be ~ well, you get the picture. Thus my recipe:

Beer Bath Louisiana Hot-Link Sausages

• One pack of Louisiana Hot-Link Sausages

• 1.5 pints of Republic Brewing Company’s Fit Brown Brew

• A dash of Sweet Baby Ray’s BBQ sauce

• One large crock-pot

• Ten hours of on-&-off cooking (mostly on)

Combine the contents into the crock pot early in the day. Periodically check the progress. During each inspection pour one quarter cup of Fit Brown Brew into a measuring up and drink slowly. If your measurements are done correctly the growler will be empty and the sausages cooked at the end of the ten hour period.

Catherine's Frothy Fit Brown Brewbread

3 cups organic all-purpose flour
2 Tablespoon organic granulated sugar
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt


Mix dry ingredients together and add your favorite spices and cheese.
A dainty shake of locally grown and dried Dill
2 Tablespoons of Feta


Add:
12 ounces of Frothy Fit Brown Brew from Republic Brewing Company’s take home growler.



Mix lightly batter will be thick. Add more beer for a thinner loaf.
Spread into a buttered 8 inch loaf pan.


Glaze: 1 brown home grown organic egg & 2 teaspoons Frothy Fit Brown Brew, well beaten
Cook at 375* for 45 minutes.

Bon Appétit...